Insurance calculators

Life insurance need

Size a policy from what it actually has to pay for, and check it against the rule of thumb.

Income to replace

Debts and obligations

Education

What you already have

Coverage to buy$1.28M$1,282,910
Total need$1.47M$1,472,910
Income replacement$972,910$59,500 a year for 20 years
Mortgage payoff$240,000
Debts and final expenses$40,000
Education fund$220,000
Already covered$190,000Existing policies plus savings
The rule of thumb says$850,000 to $1.02M10 to 12 times income. Your DIME number is 17.3 times.
Where the number comes fromAmountShare of the total
Debts and final expenses$40,0002.7%
Income replacement$972,91066.1%
Mortgage payoff$240,00016.3%
Education$220,00014.9%

The largest row is the one worth arguing about. If it is the mortgage, the need falls every year you pay it down.

Term coverage priced for the years the need actually exists is what most of this calls for: the debts shrink, the children grow up, and the number is far smaller at 55 than at 35. This is an estimate to think with, not advice to buy anything, and it ignores survivor benefits and a surviving partner's own earnings, both of which cut the figure.

What this is actually telling you

DIME adds up the four things a payout has to cover: debts, income, mortgage and education. Building the number from its parts is the point, because it shows which part is doing the work, and a mortgage that is nearly paid off changes the answer far more than any rule of thumb suggests. The income piece is discounted at a real return, so it is the lump sum that would fund those years rather than the raw total of them. The rule of thumb will disagree with it, sometimes by a lot, and neither is wrong: DIME asks what the money is for, the multiple asks what most households in your position end up buying. What this leaves out is the survivors' own earnings, Social Security survivor benefits, and anything an employer keeps paying, all of which reduce the need, and it treats the payout as invested rather than spent. It is an estimate to think with, not a recommendation to buy a policy, and the premium on any figure it produces depends on underwriting, your health and where you live.

Term against whole life

Compare buying term and investing the difference against a whole life policy's cash value.

What each side is worth at the end

Term plus investing, after tax$189,988$5,020 a year invested at 7.0%
Whole life cash value$125,000Before any tax on surrender
Difference after the term$64,988Ahead for term plus investing
What the policy earns on premiums1.51%The return implied by the premiums going in and the cash value coming out
Return you would need to match it2.59%On the invested difference, after tax
Premiums paid on term$7,600$380 a year for 20 years
Premiums paid on whole life$108,000
Coverage once the term ends$0 against $500,000The term policy stops. The whole life policy does not.
$0$50,347$100,694$151,040$201,38705101520Years
Term plus investing, after taxWhole life cash value

The cash value is shown before tax. Surrendering a policy for more than the premiums paid makes the excess taxable as ordinary income, while borrowing against it or holding it for the death benefit does not. Illustrations that show dividends are projections, not guarantees, so use the guaranteed column if the policy has one.

What this is actually telling you

Whole life bundles insurance with a savings account. This unbundles it: buy the cheap coverage, invest what you did not spend on premiums, and see where the two land at the end of the term. On the numbers typed in, buy term and invest the difference almost always wins, because the invested money is not paying for a commission, an administration charge and a guarantee. That is the arithmetic, and the arithmetic is not the whole case. Whole life is permanent, so it still pays if you die at 80 when a term policy has long since expired, the cash value is a guaranteed floor rather than a market outcome, and the premium is a forced savings discipline that a lot of people follow and would not follow with a brokerage account. None of that is priced here. The other thing missing is what happens after the term ends, when one side has coverage and the other has a portfolio, so read the ending values as two different things rather than one comparison. Whole life also has real uses this ignores, notably estate liquidity and a dependant who will need support for life. It is an estimate to think with, not a recommendation, and real premiums depend on underwriting, your health and where you live.

Disability coverage

Work out the monthly benefit you would actually need, once tax and group cover are counted.

Coverage you already have

Terms of the policy

Top-up coverage to buy$1,224A month, tax free, on top of the group policy
Group benefit in your pocket$3,276$4,200 a month less 22% tax
Share of income the group policy really replaces46.8%After tax, which is the number that counts
If that top-up were taxable instead$1,569You would have to buy this much benefit to be left with the same money
Cash to cover the wait before payments start$13,50090 days unpaid, and your $15,000 covers it
Income the cover protects$1.62MOver 30 years of payments, before inflation
Each monthAmount
Gross income$7,000
Expenses to cover$4,500
Group benefit before tax$4,200
Tax on it-$924
Group benefit after tax$3,276
Gap left to fill$1,224

Group and top-up together come to $5,424 a month, which is more than 70% of your gross pay. Insurers rarely issue that much, so expect the top-up to be trimmed.

The benefit period figure is in today's dollars and ignores inflation over what could be decades, so a policy without a cost of living rider protects less each year. Nothing here models the definition of disability, which decides whether a claim pays at all: own occupation coverage pays if you cannot do your job, any occupation coverage pays only if you cannot do any job, and it costs less for that reason.

What this is actually telling you

Disability coverage replaces income, so the only figure that matters is what lands in your account each month against what leaves it. Who pays the premium decides that. A group policy paid for by an employer pays a benefit that is taxable as ordinary income, so a 60% benefit is really nearer 45% once tax is taken, while an individual policy bought with money you have already paid tax on pays out tax free. That single difference usually moves the number more than the percentage on the front of the policy does. Two other terms do the real work: the elimination period is the wait before anything is paid, which is a job for savings rather than insurance, and the benefit period is how long payments last, where anything short of retirement age leaves the long tail uncovered. This leaves out Social Security disability, which is hard to qualify for and slow, any state program, and the definition of disability itself, which is the clause that decides whether a claim is paid at all. It is an estimate to think with, not a recommendation to buy a policy, and real premiums depend on underwriting, your health, your occupation and where you live.

Health plan comparison

Put a high deductible plan against a low deductible one on total cost, in a good year and a bad one.

High deductible plan

Low deductible plan

Tax and spending

Medical spending to test

High deductible, typical year$3,170After $1,350 of HSA money and tax saved
Low deductible, typical year$3,780
Difference in a typical year$610In favor of the high deductible plan
The two plans cost the same at$19,050Spend less than this in the year and one plan wins, spend more and the other does
Worst case, high deductible plan$6,410Premiums plus the full out-of-pocket maximum
Worst case, low deductible plan$6,280
Premiums alone$1,260 against $2,280Before you use the plan at all
-$480$1,340$3,160$4,980$6,800$0$7,500$15,000$22,500$30,000Medical spending in the year
High deductible planLow deductible plan
YearYou spendHigh deductibleLow deductibleDifference
Quiet$800$710$3,080$2,370 cheaper on the HDHP
Typical$3,500$3,170$3,780$610 cheaper on the HDHP
Bad$25,000$6,410$6,280$130 cheaper on the low deductible

Pick the plan on the year you expect, then check you could survive the bad one. The worst case rows above are the real question the high deductible plan asks.

HSA money you do not spend stays yours and can be invested, which this does not count, so the high deductible side is understated over a run of healthy years. Nothing here models networks, prescription tiers or referral rules, and those decide whether a bill counts toward the deductible at all.

What this is actually telling you

A health plan has two prices: what you pay every month whether you use it or not, and what you pay when you do. A high deductible plan shifts money from the first to the second, so it wins the quiet years and loses the expensive ones, and the crossing point is the only number worth finding. The HSA is what usually settles it: money in one goes in untaxed, grows untaxed and comes out untaxed for medical costs, it belongs to you rather than to the plan year, and only a qualifying high deductible plan can have one. This ignores everything that is not a dollar figure, and some of it matters more than the arithmetic does. Whether your doctors are in network, whether your prescriptions are on the formulary, and how the plan treats a specialist referral can all cost more than the premium gap. It also assumes every dollar of spending is in network and counts toward the deductible, which out of network care does not. It is an estimate to think with, not a recommendation to pick a plan.

Deductible against premium

See whether raising a deductible on your home or car pays, and how often you can claim before it does not.

How often you claim

Ahead over the period$1,850$3,100 saved against $1,250 of extra claims cost over 10 years
It pays if you claim less often thanonce every 3.2 yearsYou said once every 8 years
Premium saved each year$31013.5% off the premium
Extra you pay on a claim$1,000
Expected claims over the period1.3At once every 8 years
Could you pay the higher deductible tomorrow?Yes
$0$822$1,643$2,465$3,286035810Years
Premium saved, running totalExtra claims cost, expected

The claims line is an average spread evenly, so it is smooth where real life is not. One claim in year one costs the full difference at once, long before the premium saving has built up. A deductible only bites on claims bigger than it, and a claim smaller than the higher deductible would pay you nothing either way, so raising it can also mean not bothering to claim at all.

What this is actually telling you

Raising a deductible is a trade of a certain small saving against an uncertain large cost. The break even is simple arithmetic: divide the extra you would pay on a claim by the premium you save each year, and that is how many claim-free years it takes to fund one claim. Claim less often than that and the higher deductible is ahead. The arithmetic almost always favors the higher deductible, because insurers price small claims expensively, and there is a reason for that beyond the cost: claims are what move your renewal price, so small claims you never make protect the premium as well as the deductible. The real question is not the average but the worst month. A deductible you cannot pay from cash tomorrow is a deductible you should not buy, whatever the number says. This assumes claims arrive at an even rate, which they do not, and it leaves out the effect a claim has on your renewal, which can dwarf the deductible itself. It is an estimate to think with, not advice, and every insurer prices this differently.

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